Carabiner UNCLIPS · Massive Fall Ensues

This whipper is horrifying. While climbing the fourth pitch of Warriors of the Wasteland (, 200 meters) in Squamish, BC this was Casey Dubois’s first redpoint attempt of the 30-meter pitch, a - “Casey had climbed through most of the hard climbing with one final hard move before the sinker finger-crack finale,” the filmer, Kyle Smith, wrote to Climbing. “Unfortunately he fell on that final hard move and ripped a 0.1 x4 BD at his ankles. We were expecting a small fall, but the cam failed and the carabiner on the cam below unclipped itself causing Casey to fall over slightly half the pitch.” Dubois helmet sported multiple cracks from the impact. “He was a little shaken of course, but was totally okay,” Smith said. When asked if Smith knew how that second carabiner unclipped itself. “We couldn’t figure [it] out … but it did. It just was one of those perfect storms,” he said. Indeed, strange things happen when gear holds for an instant before ripping: the rope stretches and stretc