I spent 2 days for 7 hours on a surfboard

It sounds scary and dangerous, but it only seems that way. I like Big Wave more — it’s a separate discipline within surfing, where the main thing is not so much the tricks as the size of the wave. This is when you are hoisted up on a winch and a column of water falls on you and it seems that a building is collapsing on you. I have been riding actively for 12 years and have tried myself in many sports and activities throughout my life, but surfing cannot be compared to anything. This is a separate kind of pleasure, it’s like meditation, only cooler! I wish everyone to experience this feeling, by the way, who has tried surfing on big waves?