Kashmir Hand Embroidered Shawl Making

Kashmir shawls are world famous for their embroidery, beauty, design and texture. These shawls are woven on a handloom and are then hand embroidered by the finest artisans who have mastered art of needle work over generations. In Kashmir wool woven from the ibex goat found at 14,000 above MSL. is called Pashmina. The rarity of this soft wool makes it more precious than gold by weight. Many kind of embroidery are worked on Kashmir Shawls, motifs usually floral, stylish paisley and more recently abstract designs in different colors. Kashmir shawls are warm and imperial in looks and are regarded as a status symbol by connoisseurs’ and patrons of the art. The Indian Shawl or shoulder mantle has been in existence in India in a variety of forms since ancient times, serving rich and poor as a protective garment against the cold. The word shawl is derived from Persian “shal“ which was the name given for a whole range of fine woolen garments. The shawl in India was worn folded across the shoulder instead of a girdle as they used to do it in Persia. In the 15th century the Jamavar technique of weaving intricate Persian inspired motifs was brought to the Kashmir region. Patterns in these early Jamavars were created by using weft threads of various colors that did not run the full width of the fabric. These Jamavars became fashionable in Europe in the 18th century but only few could afford the costly weaving technique. The invention of the jaquard loom in early 19th century made the shawl available for a larger market. Some modern Jamavars simulate earlier weaving traditions by using a supplemental warp to create complex designs while weaving large solid colors of block (cutwork Jamavar). The Mughal emperor Akbar was a great admirer of the Kashmiri shawls and encouraged weavers to try new motifs, and different styles. However successive regimes imposed heavy taxation which devastated the whole shawl industry which was on the verse of extinction in 17th century. The British rule in India was a blessing in disguise for this Industry which gave it much needed boost. Totally enamored with the Kashmiri shawls they took them back home piece by piece and so their fame spread all over Europe.